Siem Reap is bizarre, a town with open sewers and amputees begging right next to super deluxe hotels where one nights accomodation can cost $2000 US dollars. The tourist restaurants are like something out of a home decorating magazine but beyond the potted plants that screen the street there are kids holding tiny babies begging for money on the other side. It all feels very, very wrong.
One night two little kids attach themselves to me, holding my hands tightly and basically taking me prisoner. We walk down the street and I cannot get rid of them, finally we stop in front of a shop where Ed and I cave in and decide to buy them something. The little boy and his sister march into the shop and straight to the back shelves where we think they will probably want sweets. But they are pointing at a tin of something on the very top shelf, it is baby formula. "For little, little" coos the girl, pointing at the tin. So we buy it for them, they take the bag and the boy opens the door for us with a little flourish. He and his sister grin, say bye bye, put their arms around each other and disappear into the night. It's just another sad night in this town.